A quick FO round-up

Oops! Well, when life happens, my blog tends to get neglected.
My creativity and productivity wasn’t sky high in 2020 (I think I had many fewer finished objects than previous years) and I won’t make firm promises for this year, but here’s a quick up-sum of the end of the year (and beginning of this year) projects.

A pair of socks for my dad:

a pair of green striped socks laying flat on cream coloured fabric

24 mini skeins of yarn spun as part of an Advent swap:

24 mini skeins of yarn arranged into a Christmas tree form

 

A cross stitch piece I started in 2018:cross stitch piece un-ironed that says "Home is where the yarn is" and a small motif of a ball of yarn with needles stuck in it

Three pairs of knickers:

a pair of short style undies made in striped fabric

two pairs of brief style underwear in black and striped fabrics

I lost focus quite a bit last year so I’m setting myself some loose short-, medium-, and long-term goals with regards making things. I think I’ll do another Make 9 challenge, but keep it fairly non-specific!

Close up of blue buttons on the yoke of a knitted jumper

Thousand Tides Jumper

It may be a little warm to be wearing this very cozy jumper, but it’ll soon be cool enough to make the best of it!

A plus sized woman with brown curly hair and glasses is wearing a long sleeved purple jumper, with blue garter stitch stripes at the yoke. There is a 6 button placket. The cuffs of the sleeves and hem of the jumper are in blue yarn. She is facing towards the camera and is smiling.
Just leanin’ on my spinning wheel. As you do.

This is a double-friend item – both the pattern and the yarn are by people I consider friends (you’d have to ask them whether or not they reciprocate those feelings!).

Pattern: Thousand Tides by Kate Heppell [note – Ravelry link]

A plus sized woman with brown curly hair and glasses is wearing a long sleeved purple jumper, with blue garter stitch stripes at the yoke. There is a 6 button placket. The cuffs of the sleeves and hem of the jumper are in blue yarn. She is turned towards the right.
Asymmetric split hem.

Yarns: Bruce by Woo Sheeps in Lilac Wine (MC) and Sapphire (CC). DK masquerading as worsted. MC: 850 m (375 g), CC: 190 m (85 g).

Needles: 4 mm and 4.5 mm KnitPro interchangeable.

Notions: Six non-matching blue buttons from stash.

A purple hand knitting jumper with blue stripes in the yoke. There is a button placket with six blue buttons of various styles.
You can see on the right hand side of the yoke (as you’re looking at it) where I dropped down to fix the extra decrease from the row above.

Notes/modifications:

  • I used a temporary cast on just below the underarms and knit the yoke up. I then knit the sleeves down (as per the pattern). I then undid the temp cast on at the yoke and knit the body down, so as to make the best use of my yarn.
  • I’d originally ordered the yarn for a completely different pattern, but quickly realised it needed to be used in an other way.
  • I’d also ordered a different contrast (Copper Bottom) but seeing the two yarns together I realised they wouldn’t work. Luckily, I’d bought a skein of the Sapphire colourway from WooSheeps at Yarndale in 2017 and it was the perfect match/contrast!
  • Although the yarn is “officially” a double knitting weight, I think it’s much more of a heavy DK/worsted/light Aran, and so I knitted it with 4.5 mm needles to give me a tension of 19 sts and 28 rnds per 10 cm.
  • Therefore, I made size M to fit size XL.
  • I added my own gentle waist shaping, mirroring the sleeve decreases.
A plus sized woman with brown curly hair and glasses is wearing a long sleeved purple jumper, with blue garter stitch stripes at the yoke. There is a 6 button placket. The cuffs of the sleeves and hem of the jumper are in blue yarn. She is facing left and has raised her left arm to show the waist decreases.
  • I think there is an error in the yoke instructions (there seemed to be one extra decrease on the left hand side, making it asymmetric – see photo), and I’ve messaged the designer to let her know. If I’m correct, I’m sure an errata will be issued.
Close up of striped yoke showing an extra decrease on the right hand side (left on the yoke when worn).
  • Yes, I did knit the whole yoke knowing it wasn’t right. I may have been knitting since 2002, but that does not mean I don’t still go into crafting-related denial!
  • I alternated skeins through the body, using the helical knitting technique, in case there were any major variations in the colour of the skeins.

Further thoughts:

Overall, I’m really pleased with how this turned out. I wasn’t sure I’d have enough yarn to make a real bum-warmer jumper but I’m pleased that I did. I’ve also managed to use up some more of my button stash (which, believe me, is extensive).

A plus sized woman with brown curly hair and glasses is wearing a long sleeved purple jumper, with blue garter stitch stripes at the yoke. The cuffs of the sleeves and hem of the jumper are in blue yarn. She is standing with her back to the camera.
It’s a real bum-warmer!

This is only my 10th knitted or crocheted finished object of the year, but I have been picking up the slack with my sewing. Hopefully, as the nights really start to draw in, I’ll feel more like picking up the needles again?

Simee Dimeh Stashbusting Shawl

My first proper knitting FO since May and my first shawl since February 2019 is this lovely mosaic-heavy beauty from Rosemary Hill!

A triangular shawl in seven different yarns is draped on a hanger surrounded my greenery.

I’m all about stashbuster patterns that use up decent chunks of those partial balls of sock/4ply yarn that always seem to breed in the cupboard!

Pattern(s): Simee Dimeh by Designs by Romi [WARNING!!! Ravelry link. This link may cause some people problems with regards to visual issues]

Yarn(s): Various different yarns from stash. All 4ply/sock/fingering. Shawl weighs 170 g (approx 680 m).

  1. Regia Silk
  2. Mystery alpaca
  3. Wooly Wonka bamboo blend
  4. White/cream prob Patons Diploma
  5. Regia Color
  6. Dark brown with sparkle
  7. Debbie Bliss Rialto 4ply in pink

Needles: 4 mm KnitPro interchangeable circular

a mostly pink triangular shawl is held up on branches of a very lush green hedge

Notions: blocking wires and stitch markers.

Notes/modifications:

  • Other than using my own yarns from stash, no modifications to the pattern needed.
  • Choosing yarns that were similar to the chart colours really helped – highly recommend doing that!

Further thoughts:

I don’t know how long it took me to make this, but it doesn’t really matter. My knitting mojo has plummeted during lockdown (and I’m still in a lockdown/shielding situation) so I’m just grateful I was able to concentrate in long enough bursts to get this done. I think the relatively short charts and quick changes of yarn helped to keep my interest up!

Blanca Flight Suit: a test from Closet Core Patterns

Well, here’s a thing! I never thought I’d make a pair of coveralls/boiler suit/jumpsuit/flight suit, but you’re asked to test one in a company’s new extended sizes and look what happens!

Note: these photos were taken on a cold and windy day in mid-March in those halcyon, pre-lockdown, days!

A plus sized woman with short wavy brown hair stands in front of a trellis covered in ivy. She is wearing a grey and white striped jumpsuit. She has her hands in her hip pockets.
Strike a pose! Not that you can tell, but I’m wearing heels!

Pattern: Blanca Flight Suit (PDF pattern link) from Closet Core Patterns

Size(s): although I measured as a straight 16 in their 14-30 block my muslin/toile was very tight around the waist and the hips, especially when seated. The top half of the bodice fit well, so I opted to grade between a 16 at the bust and into an 18 at the waist/hips.

Fabric: a medium-weight viscose/linen striped tweed from Abakhan in Manchester. It’s a slightly textured/uneven weave with good drape but also a bit of body to it.

A plus sized woman with short wavy brown hair stands in front of a trellis covered in ivy. She is wearing a grey and white striped jumpsuit. She is turned away from the camera and has her hands in her back pockets.
Pockets on ma bum!

Notions: I couldn’t find a closed end zip in the length I needed so I opted for a light-weight open ended zip and sewed a bar tack at the length I needed and trimmed the excess teeth and zip end away. Gutermann thread.

Modifications:

  • Despite being the industry standard 5’6″ and my height evenly distributed between torso and legs, my toile/muslin was very tight between neck and crotch so I added 1.5 cm to the bodice front and back, and added 1.5 cm to the crotch depth front and back. This made the fit much better both sitting and standing. I lengthened the pocket proportionally as well.
  • I loved the selvage of the fabric so much I incorporated it into the patch pockets and the zip flap (even though you can’t see that, I like the continuity!)
  • I cut the pockets, the back waistband, the tie, and the collar on the cross grain to add interest and so I didn’t have to attempt to match stripes!
  • I faced the collar in the same fabric that the hip pockets are faced with, just to add a fun pop of colour and to help with the stability.
  • I inserted elastic into the back waistband so it would keep its shape without a belt.
  • An accidental modification was inserting the back waistband upside down due to the mis-labelling of some notches in the instructions. Silly me, I should have gone off the pattern pieces!
A plus sized woman with short wavy brown hair stands in front of a trellis covered in ivy. She is wearing a grey and white striped jumpsuit. She is turned to the side of the camera and is holding the collar of the jumpsuit up to show a dragonfly print fabric underneath.
Surprise dragonflies!

Notes: This was my first ever test sew (I’ve done test knitting before) and I wasn’t quite sure what I’d got myself into! It was an enjoyable process and despite doing it to the backdrop of the worsening COVID-19 outbreak (or maybe because of it) I ploughed through it, making the whole thing in 6 half days.

I was mildly annoyed with myself that I didn’t match the stripes on the front bodice and the front trousers, but at least I got everything on grain! The fabric was tricky to work with and moved as soon as you looked at it (using spray starch helped somewhat), so it lead to some wonky lines in the finished garment. But, to be honest, I’ll always be wearing it with some sort of belt so I don’t think it matters.

A plus sized woman with short wavy brown hair stands in front of a trellis covered in ivy. She is wearing a grey and white striped jumpsuit. She has her hands in her hip pockets.
Shoutout to my BFF in this photo – my cold frame.

The following changes were made to the finished pattern from the test (from Closet Case themselves):

  • Took in the hips a bit
  • Added a tiny bit of length and width to bodice at the front, shortened slightly at the back
  • Shortened crop leg more and lengthened full leg slightly
  • Tweaked breast pocket grading
  • Lengthened hip pocket and adjusted lining
  • Moved armscye and shoulder up a bit, narrowed shoulder, flattened sleeve cap slightly, added bit of room at the bicep

Keep this in mind if you look like me and want a finished garment that fits like mine!

Check out Closest Case’s blog post for more details about the pattern.

Disclaimer: in return for testing I received a final copy of the Blanca Flight Suit and a $25 credit to spend in the Closet Cases pattern store. I bought my own fabric and notions.

Make Nine 2020: Linen balloon trousers

A woman is wearing a black and white floral print top and trousers. The top is sleeveless. The trousers have slash pockets and are gathered at the ankles.
Moody because the light is terrible and it’s cold!

With bonus Sorbetto top (see end of post)!

First finished object for Make Nine 2020 are these linen blend “balloon trousers/pants” *, number 7 on my grid. I took the opportunity to join in with the Sew Fancy Pants sew-along hosted by Merritts Makes, Katie Kortman, Sierra Burrell, Brad Schultz, and Rumana.

*I use the term “balloon trousers/pants” because it’s more descriptive and much, much, less problematic than “harem trousers/pants”. If you ever see me using the phrase “harem pants” assume I have been kidnapped and am asking for help in a coded way.

They are based off an old Khaliah Ali Simplicity pattern I’ve had in my stash for years. I wanted a trouser similar to the Luna Pants, but couldn’t justify buying yet another pattern when I had one in stash I could modify!

A woman is wearing a black and white floral print top and trousers. The top is sleeveless. The trousers have slash pockets and are gathered at the ankles.
This corner of my in-progress craft room was the only place I could find indoors to photograph the outfit!

My aim was for a super lightweight pair of trews for the 3 days of hot weather we get in my part of Britain in the middle of August. And also pockets.

I made a muslin (toile) first out of a cotton/poly duvet cover to check the fit. I added an inch to the waistband, knowing that I wanted to raise that. As a result of the toile I added half an inch to the back crotch and a further half inch to the back crotch rise.

A woman is wearing a black and white floral print top and trousers. The top is sleeveless. The trousers have slash pockets and are gathered at the ankles.
Check out the fit on these babies!

Pattern: Simplicity 5074 – View D/E Pants

Fabric: very lightweight linen/cotton blend from Abakhan online

Notions: Gutermann thread, 1/2″ elastic for waistband, 1/4″ elastic for cuffs, interfacing for buttonholes (for ties)

Sizing: Measured as a 22W (what?! I think Simplicity sizing is out of step with a lot of the independent companies because that’s not my size in Cashmerette patterns! Just goes to show you shouldn’t go off your “Dress Size” but should use your actual measurements) but cut a 24W because I wanted a loose fit through the hips and thighs.

A woman is wearing black and white floral trousers with a plain black t-shirt. The trousers have slash pockets and are gathered at the ankles.
Just the trousers.

Notes/modifications:

  • Omitted patch pocket on leg
  • Added elastic to leg hems
  • Raised waistline by 1″/2.5 cm front and back
  • Made “large bum” adjustments to back by extending back crotch seamline by 0.5″ and raising back crotch by another 0.5″ using “slash and spread” method on paper pattern
  • Switched the pocket and fronts around to create a slash pocket so I didn’t have to pattern match a patch pocket!
  • Edged the pockets in the same grey bias binding I used for the Sorbetto Top

Bonus Sorbetto top from Colette!

A woman is wearing a black and white floral print top and plain black trousers. The top is sleeveless.
Yeah, I’m pretty pleased.

I made this top as a test of the fabric. I squeezed it out of the meter of fabric I had left over after I’d cut out the trousers by adding about 1.5cm to the centre fold line of the back piece and seaming it. This had the added bonus of making sure the print was in the correct orientation!

I cut a straight size 16 but after sewing the side seams I tried it on and discovered I needed to massively increase the bust dart. This improved the fit immensely.

The trousers have slash pockets and are gathered at the ankles. She is staring out of the window.
What’s out there? Suburbia!

I chose to leave the pleat unstitched to give more of a breezy swing top.

When it’s tucked in to the trousers it gives the effect of a jumpsuit, but with none of the toilet-related panic!

To conclude? I’m really pleased with how my first ever pair of trousers (we’re not discussing the sh*tty stripy shorts of doom from many, many, years ago) turned out. With the help of my “Fast Fit” book I think I got exactly the fit I wanted. I’m keen to try a more fitted pair at some point, but my sewing to-do list is going to take me in a different direction first!